From Oxford we follow the wartime path of many an Oxford graduate and head for Bletchley park.
The exhibits in Bletchley mansion and the huts do a good job of evoking some of the sights and sounds of the place in the war era and there are a. Number of accounts from people who worked there during the war included in the audio guide.
Volunteers have reconstructed one of the "bomb" machines based on plans and fragments and run demonstrations of it cracking a code. The story of Alan Turing that emerges is naturally a little different from the movie plot - although the ending for him after the war is sadly accurate.
We spend a couple of happy hours pottering around and gathering all kinds of tidbits of knowledge before it is time to hit the road to the capital.
After experiencing the weird and wonderful roads and crazy amounts of traffic of the U.K., we have abandoned plan A - which was to drive to our hotel in Bayswater and drop off our luggage and then drop the car at Heathrow and are opting instead to drop the car at Heathrow and use the Heathrow express to get close enough to drag the luggage to the hotel.
The journey is a little complicated by rain. If the Eskimo have 50 words for snow, I feel that that there should be more words in English to cover all the different types of rain that they experience in England. Today we start with "mysfall" - rain that you can SEE falling - but is not really heavy enough for an umbrella. This moves on to "plinking" - rain that would make a "plinking" sound if it fell into a bucket of water. As we hit the ring road around London this changes to "fogdrop" rain which is sufficiently heavy to creat a fog effect behind it - making it difficult to see.
Anyway - enough of my musings on rain. The sad fact is that it makes navigation into town even more tricky because it is hard to spot the road signs early enough.
Fortunately it all goes to plan. The Heathrow express is pricey - but very efficient. The walk from Paddington station to our accommodation in Bayswater is long - but we make it. And as we arrive between 5 and 6 we all agree that walking is preferable to trying to cram ourselves into the tube.
It feels odd not to have the big black Merc in our lives any more - but Grant is definitely relieved not to have to do any more driving!
Wednesday 20 April 2016
Oxford and around
Accommodation in Oxford turns out to be prohibitively expensive so we opt for a rural location NEAR Oxford for our next stay.
On our way we stop in at Blenheim Palace. The entry fees are steep - but I have some sympathy. The place is GIANTIC. I don't know what can have possessed the first Duke of Marlborough to build such a pile. No wonder the crown stopped funding him. And he only got to live in it for the last little bit of his life and even then it was unfinished.
We enjoy the capability Brown designed gardens and the Winston Churchill exhibition. I am particularly jealous of the cascade - a waterfall designed to provide the maximum noise and a pleasing falling water effect from the end of the artificial lake. There's also a rather good multimedia tour of some upstairs rooms that cleverly feature the ghost of a lady in waiting to the first Duchess of Marlborough - who is credited with managing most of the construction phase (Kevin would say, "And the duchess has decided to project manage the whole process herself...").
Our hotel has a slight odour of horse manure on our first night - but we feel it just adds to the rural charm. There is room to spread out a bit in the room - which we appreciate. And dinner is served at a bar in the premises and is both tasty and reasonably priced. Saves us worrying about where to go!
The next day the girl at the desk has worded us up on the Park and ride option for Oxford. Only a 5 minute drive away - all day parking is only £2 and a nice bus driver does all the tricky bits of navigating the twisty Oxford streets. We head in for a walk around town.
Oxford seems like the centre of all things English for me. We walk past the door of a college (no entry for the public) which looks ancient and is being propped open by a box of croquet equipment and watched over by a student. We pass a coffee shop where a chap in a tweed jacket with leather patches on the elbow is smoking a pipe as he chuckles to himself over a book about chess. I couldn't make this stuff up!
On a more practical note - we climb the tower of university church to get up close and personal with the gargoyles as well as a great view of the town. Narrow stairs and a narrow platform at the top that would be much more regulated anywhere else - but we enjoy it. We love all the ancient buildings and glimpses into green quadrangles.
The absolute highlight though is the Museum of Natural History. I love the building - which has a glass roof. Every column around the edge is made of a different type of stone and the carvings at the base and top of each represent the leaf of a different plant.we love the dinosaur skeletons I. The middle - including Stan the T-Rex.
At the back is the Pitt River museum - which looks just like the attic and basemen of an eccentric British explorer. The place is crammed with glass cases of everything from musical instruments to shrunken heads. There is just too much to take in and we can only sample a small portion of one of the three floors of displays.
Then it is back to the hotel to reorganize our belongings in preparation for dropping off the car.
On our way we stop in at Blenheim Palace. The entry fees are steep - but I have some sympathy. The place is GIANTIC. I don't know what can have possessed the first Duke of Marlborough to build such a pile. No wonder the crown stopped funding him. And he only got to live in it for the last little bit of his life and even then it was unfinished.
We enjoy the capability Brown designed gardens and the Winston Churchill exhibition. I am particularly jealous of the cascade - a waterfall designed to provide the maximum noise and a pleasing falling water effect from the end of the artificial lake. There's also a rather good multimedia tour of some upstairs rooms that cleverly feature the ghost of a lady in waiting to the first Duchess of Marlborough - who is credited with managing most of the construction phase (Kevin would say, "And the duchess has decided to project manage the whole process herself...").
Our hotel has a slight odour of horse manure on our first night - but we feel it just adds to the rural charm. There is room to spread out a bit in the room - which we appreciate. And dinner is served at a bar in the premises and is both tasty and reasonably priced. Saves us worrying about where to go!
The next day the girl at the desk has worded us up on the Park and ride option for Oxford. Only a 5 minute drive away - all day parking is only £2 and a nice bus driver does all the tricky bits of navigating the twisty Oxford streets. We head in for a walk around town.
Oxford seems like the centre of all things English for me. We walk past the door of a college (no entry for the public) which looks ancient and is being propped open by a box of croquet equipment and watched over by a student. We pass a coffee shop where a chap in a tweed jacket with leather patches on the elbow is smoking a pipe as he chuckles to himself over a book about chess. I couldn't make this stuff up!
On a more practical note - we climb the tower of university church to get up close and personal with the gargoyles as well as a great view of the town. Narrow stairs and a narrow platform at the top that would be much more regulated anywhere else - but we enjoy it. We love all the ancient buildings and glimpses into green quadrangles.
The absolute highlight though is the Museum of Natural History. I love the building - which has a glass roof. Every column around the edge is made of a different type of stone and the carvings at the base and top of each represent the leaf of a different plant.we love the dinosaur skeletons I. The middle - including Stan the T-Rex.
At the back is the Pitt River museum - which looks just like the attic and basemen of an eccentric British explorer. The place is crammed with glass cases of everything from musical instruments to shrunken heads. There is just too much to take in and we can only sample a small portion of one of the three floors of displays.
Then it is back to the hotel to reorganize our belongings in preparation for dropping off the car.
Taking the waters in Bath
Next stop on the study tour is Bath.
The weather puts on a gorgeous day for us so that the local bath stone takes on a golden glow as we drive into town.
Our hotel is uphill from town - about a 15 minute walk in, possibly longer for me on the walk back as it is quite steep.
First stop is the Roman baths. The exhibit here is really well put together. You get an audio guide as part of the entry fee and there are lots of large projections showing how the Romans would actually have used the baths - also a Bill Bryson commentary option for some areas. I found it fascinating and well worth a visit.
Right next door is the pump room. Although I couldn't quite face the 22.95 (around $50) per head for the full afternoon tea (just call me 's Stingypants) we managed to have a nice afternoon tea with live chamber music in the background. After so many years reading Georgette Heye novels set in Regency Bath - how could I resist!
Just a few streets away the Assembly rooms have been restored. We didn't go to the costume museum which is in the same building - but I loved looking at the a actual rooms where so many scenes I had read had been set.
Bath was a lovely town to walk through and seemed to be filled with lots of shops and cafes that we wished we had time to explore. We all wish that we had left Cardiff sooner and spent longer in Bath.
To finish the evening off - the pub up the road from the hotel serves an excellent meal. We have it pretty much to ourselves. We also turn out to be the only guests at the hotel that night - in spite of the insistence from the guy who checked us in that we move the car over to allow more room for others to park. Oh well.
The weather puts on a gorgeous day for us so that the local bath stone takes on a golden glow as we drive into town.
Our hotel is uphill from town - about a 15 minute walk in, possibly longer for me on the walk back as it is quite steep.
First stop is the Roman baths. The exhibit here is really well put together. You get an audio guide as part of the entry fee and there are lots of large projections showing how the Romans would actually have used the baths - also a Bill Bryson commentary option for some areas. I found it fascinating and well worth a visit.
Right next door is the pump room. Although I couldn't quite face the 22.95 (around $50) per head for the full afternoon tea (just call me 's Stingypants) we managed to have a nice afternoon tea with live chamber music in the background. After so many years reading Georgette Heye novels set in Regency Bath - how could I resist!
Just a few streets away the Assembly rooms have been restored. We didn't go to the costume museum which is in the same building - but I loved looking at the a actual rooms where so many scenes I had read had been set.
Bath was a lovely town to walk through and seemed to be filled with lots of shops and cafes that we wished we had time to explore. We all wish that we had left Cardiff sooner and spent longer in Bath.
To finish the evening off - the pub up the road from the hotel serves an excellent meal. We have it pretty much to ourselves. We also turn out to be the only guests at the hotel that night - in spite of the insistence from the guy who checked us in that we move the car over to allow more room for others to park. Oh well.
Thursday 14 April 2016
Visiting Dr Who in Cardiff
the thing about visiting a city for a very short time is that your view of the place can be shaped by all sorts of randomness aspects of your experience. Like the weather or where you stay...
Cardiff was on our itinerary for one thing - the Dr Who experience.
Our chosen accommodation - just because of financial constraints (did I mention that deciding to sell your house and buy a new one just when you have an overseas trip booked is a REALLY BAD IDEA) was an Ibis budget. Turns out that this was one step below my comfort level...
The other thing about Cardiff is that it is on the coast. In Australia this may make you think of sun- drenched beaches. In Britain our experience is that it should make you think of gale force winds and driving rain.
We arrive in town and do our usual initial search for food. Cardiff actually has a really nice pedestrian area in the middle that locals cycle through. At least I am sure it is lovely when the gale force wind previously mentioned isn't blowing.
We pass the castle in our travels. I can't quite believe it - but I think we are actually OVER castles. Because passing the outside is all we want to do.
Eventually we find a pub that does a really reasonable carvery. It is Sunday night - so I guess someone who was more attuned to sport than I am would EXPECT the football to be showing on multiple large screens and crowds of people to be reacting to every goal. Luckily it was soccer rather than rugby. This makes me feel uncomfortable - but I am like that about sport.
Dani and Grant let me sit inconspicuously at the table and fetch the food. When it arrives this is a HUGE serving of delicious roast.
While we are eating the rain starts. At 45 degrees. We arrive at our unlovely budget hotel soaked to the skin.
Next morning it is off to Dr Who! We catch a bus through the drizzle and are there for the first show of the day. The whole exhibition is excellent. A theme park style adventure with the Doctor followed by an exhibition of all kinds of memorabilia. Both Whovians enjoyed it immensely.
The drizzle was well and truly set in by the time we emerged. Undaunted, we go for a walk around the Cardiff docks area. It reminds me a little of the darling harbour area in Sydney. There are lots of pictures of it with blue sky in the background - we feel these must have been photoshopped. But somehow cold and unappealing on a cold and drizzly day. We head back to the shopping plaza and try to figure out what to do. Somehow we don't find the prospect of visiting the castle appealing. We also can't seem to find a cafe and end up in a shopping mall cafe - pleased that it is dry and relieved not to be walking any more.
Cardiff redeems itself a little when we find a nice pub for dinner - the Duke of Wellington - and the rain stops.
So - not a place we will be keen to head back to. Possibly should have been back on the road right after Dr Who. Oh well - sometimes you just can't tell until you are there.
Cardiff was on our itinerary for one thing - the Dr Who experience.
Our chosen accommodation - just because of financial constraints (did I mention that deciding to sell your house and buy a new one just when you have an overseas trip booked is a REALLY BAD IDEA) was an Ibis budget. Turns out that this was one step below my comfort level...
The other thing about Cardiff is that it is on the coast. In Australia this may make you think of sun- drenched beaches. In Britain our experience is that it should make you think of gale force winds and driving rain.
We arrive in town and do our usual initial search for food. Cardiff actually has a really nice pedestrian area in the middle that locals cycle through. At least I am sure it is lovely when the gale force wind previously mentioned isn't blowing.
We pass the castle in our travels. I can't quite believe it - but I think we are actually OVER castles. Because passing the outside is all we want to do.
Eventually we find a pub that does a really reasonable carvery. It is Sunday night - so I guess someone who was more attuned to sport than I am would EXPECT the football to be showing on multiple large screens and crowds of people to be reacting to every goal. Luckily it was soccer rather than rugby. This makes me feel uncomfortable - but I am like that about sport.
Dani and Grant let me sit inconspicuously at the table and fetch the food. When it arrives this is a HUGE serving of delicious roast.
While we are eating the rain starts. At 45 degrees. We arrive at our unlovely budget hotel soaked to the skin.
Next morning it is off to Dr Who! We catch a bus through the drizzle and are there for the first show of the day. The whole exhibition is excellent. A theme park style adventure with the Doctor followed by an exhibition of all kinds of memorabilia. Both Whovians enjoyed it immensely.
The drizzle was well and truly set in by the time we emerged. Undaunted, we go for a walk around the Cardiff docks area. It reminds me a little of the darling harbour area in Sydney. There are lots of pictures of it with blue sky in the background - we feel these must have been photoshopped. But somehow cold and unappealing on a cold and drizzly day. We head back to the shopping plaza and try to figure out what to do. Somehow we don't find the prospect of visiting the castle appealing. We also can't seem to find a cafe and end up in a shopping mall cafe - pleased that it is dry and relieved not to be walking any more.
Cardiff redeems itself a little when we find a nice pub for dinner - the Duke of Wellington - and the rain stops.
So - not a place we will be keen to head back to. Possibly should have been back on the road right after Dr Who. Oh well - sometimes you just can't tell until you are there.
Sunday 10 April 2016
Brother Cadfael and Laundry
The next spot on our itinerary that is a must see is Cardiff - not for any rugby related reason, but because it offers the Dr Who Experience. This is a must see for Grant and Dani as true Whovians.
It is a long stretch from the Lakes to Cardiff, though and and the break point for this journey has been a bit of a challenge as the path is through the industrial North of England. We toyed with Nottingham and a spot of Robin Hood spotting in Sherwood Forest - but then I spotted Shrewsbury. It turns out that in addition to the Brother Cadfael connection (grant and Dani have no idea who Brother Cadfael is) there is a temporary exhibition at the local museums about Vikings - for Dani and a nearby RAF museum for Grant.
We set off from beautiful sunshine in the Lakes - but in true form the clouds are gathering by the time we reach Shrewsbury. It is Spring and time for April showers after all.
The omens on the way into town are good - we are due to turn left at a T intersection where we are faced by New Zealand house (why?). The left turn has a road closed sign and the traffic is backed up (they call that a queue here) but as we approach the road closed sign is removed. There appears to be some kind of military parade through the streets that we have just missed.
The museum is at the opposite end of town from our hotel, so we park the beast and set off for a walk into town wearing our trusty waterproof jackets. On the way we pass the abbey church - which sports a broken bit of wall on the side where part of the abbey was demolished by Henry VIII. Clearly no rush to neaten this up.
The Main Street of the town turns out to be charming with a large selection of Tudor buildings. The shops look interesting (window shopping only). More individual shops and less chains than in some
other places. The town square has a market and a seriously old market building (wish this would let
me load photos) from around 1100
The museum turns out to be lovely. It focuses on local history - and as there has been some form of settlement at the side of the river Severne since the Iron Age there is a lot of history to offer. There is a good collection of Roman artifacts.- including a lot of intact pots Some unfortunate traders whole market stall appears to have been overturned and somehow buried
Of course lots from the Tudors and information about Coalport pottery - which is nearby. It is also the birthplace of Charles Darwin - so there are some bits and pieces about him too.
The Viking exhibition is a little smaller than I might have hoped- but Dani is happy anyway. A lot of it seems to have come fromYork. The Viking displays there being currently closed while they recover from the floods.
On he way back we stop in at the abbey church. I have bought a booklet with walks that let you identify the real places in the (fictional) Cadfael books - but it is a bit too complicated. And I find as I read the guide that I don't REALLY remember the stories all that well at all. The church seems to have more than its fair share of medieval tombs though. So is interesting anyway.
After all our exploring we are a bit weary so opt for an Indian restaurant near the hotel for dinner. This is our first experience of English Indian food and it is very good. We like the way they serve pappadams with condiments (mango chutney, lime pickle and some others I couldn't identify) as a starter.
The next mornings he plan is for Grant to have his time looking at old aircraft at the RAF museum. This is not so interesting to Dani and me. We are planning to go to a nearby shopping centre instead - but I suggest that maybe it would be a good time to get some laundry done - as we are almost at the point of having more dirty clothes than clean ones.
Google maps tells us that there is a laundry in the town of Dawley nearby so Grant drops Dani and me and the dirty clothes off there. Dawley is no attractive tourist village. It's Main Street is not enhanced by the fact that nearly all the shops are shuttered on a Sunday morning.
Similarly the laundry is not a tourist centered facility with change machines or dispensers where you can buy detergent. It does have some seriously large washing machines though.
A kindly local gives us some washing detergent and fabric softener and fills us in on the machines a bit. We load up and set it off and find places around the place where we can perch and use our electronic devices - chairs also being something not particularly seen as necessary in this launderette. I am happily engrossed in my book when Dani points out to me that we have been there almost an hour and the machine's 45 minute wash cycle is showing no signs of ending. She lifts up the
dispenser at the top and water is still flowing into the machine.
On Sunday's the launderette runs without any on site staff. Dani rings the number on display - but we hear the phone ringing behind the locked door at the back of the room and she just gets a recorded message.
In the hope that it is a small enough town that people will know each other, I try the other open shops -the supermarket, a particularly grotty pub where all conversation stops when a stranger walks in and the sleek betting shop - but nobody has any contact details for the launderette prproeter.
I think we will be stuck there until they return to shut up shop at 4pm - but Dani is made of sterner stuff. She climbs over the chest high machines and turns it off at the PowerPoint. This drIns the machine - but we still can't open it and extract our clothes. Whether they are clean or not doesn't seem to matter at this point. She makes the climb again and turns the machine on again - but this still does
not release the door.
At last she tries a button on the back of the machine. Fortunately this is NOT the self-destruct but advances the machine through the cycle. HOORAY!
We stop it at spin and mercifully it proceeds through that bit without incident and releases the door!
We retrieve theclothes immediately. Fortunately the tumble drying goe without any further excitement.
It is a long stretch from the Lakes to Cardiff, though and and the break point for this journey has been a bit of a challenge as the path is through the industrial North of England. We toyed with Nottingham and a spot of Robin Hood spotting in Sherwood Forest - but then I spotted Shrewsbury. It turns out that in addition to the Brother Cadfael connection (grant and Dani have no idea who Brother Cadfael is) there is a temporary exhibition at the local museums about Vikings - for Dani and a nearby RAF museum for Grant.
We set off from beautiful sunshine in the Lakes - but in true form the clouds are gathering by the time we reach Shrewsbury. It is Spring and time for April showers after all.
The omens on the way into town are good - we are due to turn left at a T intersection where we are faced by New Zealand house (why?). The left turn has a road closed sign and the traffic is backed up (they call that a queue here) but as we approach the road closed sign is removed. There appears to be some kind of military parade through the streets that we have just missed.
The museum is at the opposite end of town from our hotel, so we park the beast and set off for a walk into town wearing our trusty waterproof jackets. On the way we pass the abbey church - which sports a broken bit of wall on the side where part of the abbey was demolished by Henry VIII. Clearly no rush to neaten this up.
The Main Street of the town turns out to be charming with a large selection of Tudor buildings. The shops look interesting (window shopping only). More individual shops and less chains than in some
other places. The town square has a market and a seriously old market building (wish this would let
me load photos) from around 1100
The museum turns out to be lovely. It focuses on local history - and as there has been some form of settlement at the side of the river Severne since the Iron Age there is a lot of history to offer. There is a good collection of Roman artifacts.- including a lot of intact pots Some unfortunate traders whole market stall appears to have been overturned and somehow buried
Of course lots from the Tudors and information about Coalport pottery - which is nearby. It is also the birthplace of Charles Darwin - so there are some bits and pieces about him too.
The Viking exhibition is a little smaller than I might have hoped- but Dani is happy anyway. A lot of it seems to have come fromYork. The Viking displays there being currently closed while they recover from the floods.
On he way back we stop in at the abbey church. I have bought a booklet with walks that let you identify the real places in the (fictional) Cadfael books - but it is a bit too complicated. And I find as I read the guide that I don't REALLY remember the stories all that well at all. The church seems to have more than its fair share of medieval tombs though. So is interesting anyway.
After all our exploring we are a bit weary so opt for an Indian restaurant near the hotel for dinner. This is our first experience of English Indian food and it is very good. We like the way they serve pappadams with condiments (mango chutney, lime pickle and some others I couldn't identify) as a starter.
The next mornings he plan is for Grant to have his time looking at old aircraft at the RAF museum. This is not so interesting to Dani and me. We are planning to go to a nearby shopping centre instead - but I suggest that maybe it would be a good time to get some laundry done - as we are almost at the point of having more dirty clothes than clean ones.
Google maps tells us that there is a laundry in the town of Dawley nearby so Grant drops Dani and me and the dirty clothes off there. Dawley is no attractive tourist village. It's Main Street is not enhanced by the fact that nearly all the shops are shuttered on a Sunday morning.
Similarly the laundry is not a tourist centered facility with change machines or dispensers where you can buy detergent. It does have some seriously large washing machines though.
A kindly local gives us some washing detergent and fabric softener and fills us in on the machines a bit. We load up and set it off and find places around the place where we can perch and use our electronic devices - chairs also being something not particularly seen as necessary in this launderette. I am happily engrossed in my book when Dani points out to me that we have been there almost an hour and the machine's 45 minute wash cycle is showing no signs of ending. She lifts up the
dispenser at the top and water is still flowing into the machine.
On Sunday's the launderette runs without any on site staff. Dani rings the number on display - but we hear the phone ringing behind the locked door at the back of the room and she just gets a recorded message.
In the hope that it is a small enough town that people will know each other, I try the other open shops -the supermarket, a particularly grotty pub where all conversation stops when a stranger walks in and the sleek betting shop - but nobody has any contact details for the launderette prproeter.
I think we will be stuck there until they return to shut up shop at 4pm - but Dani is made of sterner stuff. She climbs over the chest high machines and turns it off at the PowerPoint. This drIns the machine - but we still can't open it and extract our clothes. Whether they are clean or not doesn't seem to matter at this point. She makes the climb again and turns the machine on again - but this still does
not release the door.
At last she tries a button on the back of the machine. Fortunately this is NOT the self-destruct but advances the machine through the cycle. HOORAY!
We stop it at spin and mercifully it proceeds through that bit without incident and releases the door!
We retrieve theclothes immediately. Fortunately the tumble drying goe without any further excitement.
Friday 8 April 2016
Lakeland
Next on our tour of iconic UK locations is the Lakes district.
We start with a trip to Keswick. The long time home of the factory that made Derwent pencils - they moved in 2008 - and home of the pencil museum. Unfortunately the museum is currently closed - but Keswick is a lovely town anyway. And there is a Derwent shop in town which was fun to visit.
Unfortunately the NAVMAN was somehow set on "narrowest roads possible". We travelled through tiny narrow roads where the sheep are free to wander across and narrow single lane mud tracks with hedges on either side. Possibly the scariest moment is where we encounter a farmer on one side of the road and a really large goose on the other side. Fortunately all survive unscathed.
From Keswick to Windemere the NAVMAN was confounded by a closed road (make a U Turn where possible). Dani rescued us with her local SIM card and data.
But the whole drive is like driving through a painting. Snow capped mountains, patchwork of green fields, beautiful reflective water. Gorgeous!
Windemere was a tricky place to find accommodation that we could afford. Somehow Grant managed to find the Hydro - a grand old lady in need of a facelift. The public areas have beautiful chandeliers and moldings mixed with strange sparkly ceiling light fittings. the path to our room has lots of narrow staircases and twists and turns. When we get there the TV is a vintage 1980's portable TV and the furniture and decor are tired - but the views are beautiful 😀 I keep walking between the two windows to drink in the views.
Let's face it, if it was all pretty we wouldn't be able to afford to stay here.
We have a lovely walk around Windemere and pick a place for dinner.
Next day after our hotel breakfast we head down for a ferry ride across the lake to Ambleside.
Both Windermere and Ambleside are full of lovely shops. - but all too expensive for us. Besides - I am downsizing. We wander around Ambleside then catch the ferry back to Windemere. We would have liked to go to Beatrix Potters house - but it would have meant more driving and we have lots more ahead of us.
The thing to do here seems to be to walk or to "ramble". A lot of the stores stock outdoor gear of all kinds. I can see how it would be a thing - I can't imagine that you would have to carry more than a packed lunch - as there would be bound to be a town and a pub every couple of hours. And as long as you count on rain - lots of it - and a chilly wind you are sorted for weather conditions.
The other thing is that it seems to be a top holiday spot for dogs to bring their owners to. A lot of the hotels - including this one- allow both dogs and humans to stay and lots of stores are also dog friendly. Plus - walking - ideal dog activity.
In the afternoon we are tired and settle into the downstairs lounge which has an open fire and Wifi. There is a board game there called the British Train game. It's a bit complicated to actually play but we while away some time answering the trivia questions. It is nice to have some quiet time.
Fish and chips for dinner and then another wander by the lake.
SUCH a pretty spot - we've had a lovely stay.
We start with a trip to Keswick. The long time home of the factory that made Derwent pencils - they moved in 2008 - and home of the pencil museum. Unfortunately the museum is currently closed - but Keswick is a lovely town anyway. And there is a Derwent shop in town which was fun to visit.
Unfortunately the NAVMAN was somehow set on "narrowest roads possible". We travelled through tiny narrow roads where the sheep are free to wander across and narrow single lane mud tracks with hedges on either side. Possibly the scariest moment is where we encounter a farmer on one side of the road and a really large goose on the other side. Fortunately all survive unscathed.
From Keswick to Windemere the NAVMAN was confounded by a closed road (make a U Turn where possible). Dani rescued us with her local SIM card and data.
But the whole drive is like driving through a painting. Snow capped mountains, patchwork of green fields, beautiful reflective water. Gorgeous!
Windemere was a tricky place to find accommodation that we could afford. Somehow Grant managed to find the Hydro - a grand old lady in need of a facelift. The public areas have beautiful chandeliers and moldings mixed with strange sparkly ceiling light fittings. the path to our room has lots of narrow staircases and twists and turns. When we get there the TV is a vintage 1980's portable TV and the furniture and decor are tired - but the views are beautiful 😀 I keep walking between the two windows to drink in the views.
Let's face it, if it was all pretty we wouldn't be able to afford to stay here.
We have a lovely walk around Windemere and pick a place for dinner.
Next day after our hotel breakfast we head down for a ferry ride across the lake to Ambleside.
Both Windermere and Ambleside are full of lovely shops. - but all too expensive for us. Besides - I am downsizing. We wander around Ambleside then catch the ferry back to Windemere. We would have liked to go to Beatrix Potters house - but it would have meant more driving and we have lots more ahead of us.
The thing to do here seems to be to walk or to "ramble". A lot of the stores stock outdoor gear of all kinds. I can see how it would be a thing - I can't imagine that you would have to carry more than a packed lunch - as there would be bound to be a town and a pub every couple of hours. And as long as you count on rain - lots of it - and a chilly wind you are sorted for weather conditions.
The other thing is that it seems to be a top holiday spot for dogs to bring their owners to. A lot of the hotels - including this one- allow both dogs and humans to stay and lots of stores are also dog friendly. Plus - walking - ideal dog activity.
In the afternoon we are tired and settle into the downstairs lounge which has an open fire and Wifi. There is a board game there called the British Train game. It's a bit complicated to actually play but we while away some time answering the trivia questions. It is nice to have some quiet time.
Fish and chips for dinner and then another wander by the lake.
SUCH a pretty spot - we've had a lovely stay.
Carlisle and Hadrians wall
It was a long driving day yesterday fromAlexandria on Loch Lomond. It would have been nice to see more of the area - as we really just watched the loch go by from the road and our poor driver didn't even get to do that. But it really wasn't the weather for hiking and there didn't seem to be another option. Besides you just can't see everything.
So today is a low travel day in Carlisle. The view out the Ibis window at around 7 am is promising with a square of blue sky - but by the time we are all ready to head out and explore the town the rain is falling and as we venture outside we discover wind that is blowing direct from the North Pole - or at least from the Scottish highlands where there is still snow on the peaks.
Carlisle turns out to be a pretty town with beds of spring flowers dotted throughout. After an adventure at the post office we forego the cathedral and head straight for the castle.
It seems to be policy to use old castles for army bases - just in case the Scots decide to rebel one more time I suppose. This one clearly contains working barracks as well as a tourist attraction
The castle itself is fairly bleak and empty but has a long history. There has been some kind of fortification on the spot since Roman times. It was a big deal in the 1100s with King David I, the forticatiosn were redesigned by Henry VIII. I think we got the most from the room where it gave the history of the castle over the Jacobite period - where it changed hands a number of times between Bonnie Prince Charlie with his highlanders and the English under the Duke of Cumberland. Particularly gruesome ends were devised for the remnants of the Jacobite forces.
After a warming cup of tea, we head out again to see Hadrians wall. The original plan is to go to Hexham, but we see a different sign along the way and end up at a different portion of the wall at Birdoswald. Here ther is an excellent visitors centre and the remains of a fort. I had never realized that there were fortresses every mile along the wall - which were the only places you could get through- and lookout turrets spaced more frequently than that.
What amazes us today is that the Romans are still pictured in sandals and tunics. You would have thought that they would have come up with something sturdier. Clearly not being made of nearly such strong stuff we are happier to spend time in the visitors centre than picking our way through the muddy fields beside the wall or examining the foundations of the Roman fort in detail.
After a muddy dash around the foundations of the fort and out to view the surrounding land from the escarpment, we dash back to the warm cocoon of the car.
We enjoy spotting the little lambs - there seem to be a lot of twin lambs - in the surrounding fields. Although we notice on the way back that they see, to be huddling next to the stone walls of their fields (possibly made from stone purloined from Hadrians Wall) rather than gambollin around int the fields...
Time to retreat to the hotel where we polish off the haggis and black pepper flavored crisps I had bought in Scotland (actually quite delicious!).
So today is a low travel day in Carlisle. The view out the Ibis window at around 7 am is promising with a square of blue sky - but by the time we are all ready to head out and explore the town the rain is falling and as we venture outside we discover wind that is blowing direct from the North Pole - or at least from the Scottish highlands where there is still snow on the peaks.
Carlisle turns out to be a pretty town with beds of spring flowers dotted throughout. After an adventure at the post office we forego the cathedral and head straight for the castle.
It seems to be policy to use old castles for army bases - just in case the Scots decide to rebel one more time I suppose. This one clearly contains working barracks as well as a tourist attraction
The castle itself is fairly bleak and empty but has a long history. There has been some kind of fortification on the spot since Roman times. It was a big deal in the 1100s with King David I, the forticatiosn were redesigned by Henry VIII. I think we got the most from the room where it gave the history of the castle over the Jacobite period - where it changed hands a number of times between Bonnie Prince Charlie with his highlanders and the English under the Duke of Cumberland. Particularly gruesome ends were devised for the remnants of the Jacobite forces.
After a warming cup of tea, we head out again to see Hadrians wall. The original plan is to go to Hexham, but we see a different sign along the way and end up at a different portion of the wall at Birdoswald. Here ther is an excellent visitors centre and the remains of a fort. I had never realized that there were fortresses every mile along the wall - which were the only places you could get through- and lookout turrets spaced more frequently than that.
What amazes us today is that the Romans are still pictured in sandals and tunics. You would have thought that they would have come up with something sturdier. Clearly not being made of nearly such strong stuff we are happier to spend time in the visitors centre than picking our way through the muddy fields beside the wall or examining the foundations of the Roman fort in detail.
After a muddy dash around the foundations of the fort and out to view the surrounding land from the escarpment, we dash back to the warm cocoon of the car.
We enjoy spotting the little lambs - there seem to be a lot of twin lambs - in the surrounding fields. Although we notice on the way back that they see, to be huddling next to the stone walls of their fields (possibly made from stone purloined from Hadrians Wall) rather than gambollin around int the fields...
Time to retreat to the hotel where we polish off the haggis and black pepper flavored crisps I had bought in Scotland (actually quite delicious!).
Scotland the Brave
From York we headed north to Scotland. First stop Edinburgh.
Our accommodation in Edinburgh was a serviced apartment. On arrival they lost points because they had no didn't have a car space in their parking area for us. So we had to navigate to the parking area. It was only 2 or 3 blocks away - but that's a long way when you are dragging your bags. We ended up decanting just what we needed for the night into our carry on bags. Then the lift wasn't working. We felt cross about that until we saw the cleaners dragging the bags of linen up the stairs the next morning. It was much worse for them than for us!
But all of this was forgotten when we opened one of the doors in our nice fitted kitchen and found - a washer dryer! After several days traveling that was like finding a pot of gold!
We managed two full loads of washing - once Grant had the idea to download the manual from the Internet. Clean clothes - hooray!
Just time to walk along the Royal Mile and choose somewhere to eat. We found a spot that had a whisky tasting option for Grant. 4 little glasses with all kinds of scotch - at least one of them was really smoky.
In the morning the must see for us was Edinburgh castle. So back up the Royal mile navigating our way past all the shops selling tartan everything. We did give in and purchase a scarf for Grant in Murray tartan - which turns out to be the one that the Fleming name of his heritage falls under.
We took the free tour of the castle. I must say I can see why Victoria moved the royal family to balmoral. The thing about a castle with a good defensive position is that it is going to be very
exposed to the weather! The wind was blowing pretty strongly when we were there (naturally it was
raining a little as well). I was quite nervous about standing too close to the edge...
We got to see the Scottish Crown Jewels - which seem to have spent quite a bit of time in hiding in various places. The great hall had an impressive array of weapons and a demonstration of some of them - which was interesting. Also the guide told us that the cannon there were not the original cannon from the castle - as they were all destroyed as part of the demilitarization of Scotland following the Jacobite rebellion. When Queen Vic came to visit, they thought they might need some weaponry - so recycled some ships cannon that were surplus to requirements at the time.
I think the Royal highlanders are still based there - just in case the Scots decide to rebel one more time.
We also manage a walk around another park on the top of a hill that is filled with large buildings
whose purpose appears to be purely decorative. Including a
Then it was off to Dundee. Really Dundee is all about meeting up with Dani - but as a bonus it turns out to be a nice little town. We have a lovely grand old Best Western hotel - reminiscent of the Duke of Cornwall in Plymouth - with a downstairs bar. One of our favourite features. We are right up in the top - almost an attic room.
Dundee turns out to be full of great restaurants and cafes all of which are within a short walk. Lucky because the wind and rain are fierce again on Friday night.
On Saturday morning Dani introduces us to the Tinsmith cafe for breakfast - which turns out to be a favourite of ours. We try haggis in our breakfast - turns out to be like a spicy rissole. We love the
porridge though and this is what brings us back for the other days of our stay.
On Saturday we head to the Discovery - a ship built in Dundee for Scott's first expedition to
Antarctica. It is a really well done exhibition. The ship really gives you a good idea of the life on board for the 2 year expedition.
Then there is a walk to the top of the hill - but I whimp out part way up. Dad and daughter make it to the top and are rewarded with great views including a war memorial.
That night we eat in The Beer Kitchen which is a new restaurant - I think it is as good as the River Cottage Canteen.
On Sunday Dani has a hockey final in Glasgow so Grant and Dani are off to do that. Dani has been suffering with a cold and thinks she will be barely able to play. But somehow she manages to find some reserves of energy and has a great game.
I have a lovely day exploring the Dundee shops. Lots of shopping - very little buying. Prices see to be much the same in NUMBERS as they are at home - which makes pretty much everything Bout twice as expensive as it would be to buy in Australia. But it is nice to see all the shops nonetheless.
The next day is the departure from Dundee. Dani has a lot of sorting to do as she is aiming to send some Winter clothes home with us - but also needs to take clothes with her for our journey. This proves to be a difficult task - but she manages it in the end.
At my request we go to Glamis castle - largely because of the Queen Mother connection. The NAVMAN has a fit of eccentricity and sends us down a series of one lane unsealed tracks in the rain. Luckily grant and the Merc cope.
At Glamis the chap who is supposed to sell us tickets is a bit preoccupied because he is arranging a funeral service for the Laird who passed away recently. When we do find hi he is very friendly. The arrangement here is tstricly guided tours - so we are lucky to arrive just after one starts.
From trout side the castle has a fairytale look. Inside it has started life as a typical tower house with thick walls and vaults and been added to over the years. The walls are thick with portraits and there is so much of interest in every room it's hard to take it all in. Mum would have loved it. I can't remember whether mum and Dad went when they did a UK trip. The queen mum's mum was a China collector - so there is lots of China everywhere as well. The other thing that intrigues me is a plaster over mantle featuring two naked couples fairly crudely depicted. No photography inside the house.
We try to stop inScone for a scone but can't find a cafe and end up in Perth.
Then on to Loch Lomond. Grant drives us along the side of the loch so we have some lovely views featuring snow capped mountains. As driver he doesn't really get to see much. It has been a long day by the time we arrive at the B&B in Alexandria at the base of the loch.
Just time to walk to a local restaurant - the Stables for a yummy dinner and then shoehorn into our tiny room it is impressive that the couple running the B&B have managed to fit 5 ensuing rooms - including ours which accommodates 3 into their suburban house. Everything is run with great efficiency. The host is a military man and the paraphernalia in the house includes a genuine periscope.
Our last stop in Scotland is Stirling castle. The highlight for me here is the carved wooden ceilings which have been restored and painted in bright colors to match their original presentation. There are also people in Tudor costume to explain things in the Royal apartments. It is rounded off with a visit to the local regimental museum.
So it's farewell to Scotland and back into England. I would like to see more of Scotland. Hopefully there will be another opportunity.
Our accommodation in Edinburgh was a serviced apartment. On arrival they lost points because they had no didn't have a car space in their parking area for us. So we had to navigate to the parking area. It was only 2 or 3 blocks away - but that's a long way when you are dragging your bags. We ended up decanting just what we needed for the night into our carry on bags. Then the lift wasn't working. We felt cross about that until we saw the cleaners dragging the bags of linen up the stairs the next morning. It was much worse for them than for us!
But all of this was forgotten when we opened one of the doors in our nice fitted kitchen and found - a washer dryer! After several days traveling that was like finding a pot of gold!
We managed two full loads of washing - once Grant had the idea to download the manual from the Internet. Clean clothes - hooray!
Just time to walk along the Royal Mile and choose somewhere to eat. We found a spot that had a whisky tasting option for Grant. 4 little glasses with all kinds of scotch - at least one of them was really smoky.
In the morning the must see for us was Edinburgh castle. So back up the Royal mile navigating our way past all the shops selling tartan everything. We did give in and purchase a scarf for Grant in Murray tartan - which turns out to be the one that the Fleming name of his heritage falls under.
We took the free tour of the castle. I must say I can see why Victoria moved the royal family to balmoral. The thing about a castle with a good defensive position is that it is going to be very
exposed to the weather! The wind was blowing pretty strongly when we were there (naturally it was
raining a little as well). I was quite nervous about standing too close to the edge...
We got to see the Scottish Crown Jewels - which seem to have spent quite a bit of time in hiding in various places. The great hall had an impressive array of weapons and a demonstration of some of them - which was interesting. Also the guide told us that the cannon there were not the original cannon from the castle - as they were all destroyed as part of the demilitarization of Scotland following the Jacobite rebellion. When Queen Vic came to visit, they thought they might need some weaponry - so recycled some ships cannon that were surplus to requirements at the time.
I think the Royal highlanders are still based there - just in case the Scots decide to rebel one more time.
We also manage a walk around another park on the top of a hill that is filled with large buildings
whose purpose appears to be purely decorative. Including a
Then it was off to Dundee. Really Dundee is all about meeting up with Dani - but as a bonus it turns out to be a nice little town. We have a lovely grand old Best Western hotel - reminiscent of the Duke of Cornwall in Plymouth - with a downstairs bar. One of our favourite features. We are right up in the top - almost an attic room.
Dundee turns out to be full of great restaurants and cafes all of which are within a short walk. Lucky because the wind and rain are fierce again on Friday night.
On Saturday morning Dani introduces us to the Tinsmith cafe for breakfast - which turns out to be a favourite of ours. We try haggis in our breakfast - turns out to be like a spicy rissole. We love the
porridge though and this is what brings us back for the other days of our stay.
On Saturday we head to the Discovery - a ship built in Dundee for Scott's first expedition to
Antarctica. It is a really well done exhibition. The ship really gives you a good idea of the life on board for the 2 year expedition.
Then there is a walk to the top of the hill - but I whimp out part way up. Dad and daughter make it to the top and are rewarded with great views including a war memorial.
That night we eat in The Beer Kitchen which is a new restaurant - I think it is as good as the River Cottage Canteen.
On Sunday Dani has a hockey final in Glasgow so Grant and Dani are off to do that. Dani has been suffering with a cold and thinks she will be barely able to play. But somehow she manages to find some reserves of energy and has a great game.
I have a lovely day exploring the Dundee shops. Lots of shopping - very little buying. Prices see to be much the same in NUMBERS as they are at home - which makes pretty much everything Bout twice as expensive as it would be to buy in Australia. But it is nice to see all the shops nonetheless.
The next day is the departure from Dundee. Dani has a lot of sorting to do as she is aiming to send some Winter clothes home with us - but also needs to take clothes with her for our journey. This proves to be a difficult task - but she manages it in the end.
At my request we go to Glamis castle - largely because of the Queen Mother connection. The NAVMAN has a fit of eccentricity and sends us down a series of one lane unsealed tracks in the rain. Luckily grant and the Merc cope.
At Glamis the chap who is supposed to sell us tickets is a bit preoccupied because he is arranging a funeral service for the Laird who passed away recently. When we do find hi he is very friendly. The arrangement here is tstricly guided tours - so we are lucky to arrive just after one starts.
From trout side the castle has a fairytale look. Inside it has started life as a typical tower house with thick walls and vaults and been added to over the years. The walls are thick with portraits and there is so much of interest in every room it's hard to take it all in. Mum would have loved it. I can't remember whether mum and Dad went when they did a UK trip. The queen mum's mum was a China collector - so there is lots of China everywhere as well. The other thing that intrigues me is a plaster over mantle featuring two naked couples fairly crudely depicted. No photography inside the house.
We try to stop inScone for a scone but can't find a cafe and end up in Perth.
Then on to Loch Lomond. Grant drives us along the side of the loch so we have some lovely views featuring snow capped mountains. As driver he doesn't really get to see much. It has been a long day by the time we arrive at the B&B in Alexandria at the base of the loch.
Just time to walk to a local restaurant - the Stables for a yummy dinner and then shoehorn into our tiny room it is impressive that the couple running the B&B have managed to fit 5 ensuing rooms - including ours which accommodates 3 into their suburban house. Everything is run with great efficiency. The host is a military man and the paraphernalia in the house includes a genuine periscope.
Our last stop in Scotland is Stirling castle. The highlight for me here is the carved wooden ceilings which have been restored and painted in bright colors to match their original presentation. There are also people in Tudor costume to explain things in the Royal apartments. It is rounded off with a visit to the local regimental museum.
So it's farewell to Scotland and back into England. I would like to see more of Scotland. Hopefully there will be another opportunity.
Wednesday 6 April 2016
York
in York we ended up inan excellent location (thanks Grant!) near the Holgate Bridge. It was a B&B , but more like a hotel as I don't think anybody lived there and it seemed like there were rooms spread across2 houses. Turns out to be an excellent location as it was a short walk into town. There were frequent buses up to York Minster.
We had some dramas about parking due to some vans in awkward places in the hotel parking area but made it in unscathed in the end. Phew.
We walked across the bridge and through the city gates. Grant was keen on eating on a smoked meat place just inside the gates but I was slow to pick up on it so we ended up at a place overlooking the river instead ☹
The next morning we had a lovely breakfast cooked by a friendly Italian cook and then caught the bus up to the Minster. We figured we needed to go into at least one cathedral - so We went to York Minster. We were particularly taken with the air force memorial - which is a lovely clock that showed the horizon on the current date.
We were also taken with the tombs. The medieval ones were delightfully quaint. We were also taken with some 19th century bishops shown reclining leaning on one elbow, in full bishop regalia with cherubs off in the corners. Very odd.
The most humbling thing of all being that these people, who all thought they were important enough to have these large memorials built, we're all totally unknown to us...
I do also love the carved screens with all the Kings from William the Conqeror - well the first 20 or so.
We went on to the Treasurers house - now that we are National Trust members we like to find a National Trust property where we can. The treasurers house was restored (we now know) by a chap called Frank Green in the in the late 19th century. Sounds like a bit of an eccentric chap. Apparently had lots and LOTS of money due to an invention called Greens economiser which was patented by his Grandfather. ANyway, he left the house and the contents to the National Trust on the basis that it should not be changed.
We also managed a walk through the Shambles - narrow cobbled streets full of shops. A lot of the, seem to be chain shops these days. We managed a walk along the old city walls back to the gate leading out to the Holgate bridge.
Unfortunately Jorvik - which is a kind of Viking theme park - was flooded in the Winter and has still not recovered - so wasn't open.
And then it's off to Edinburgh.
We had some dramas about parking due to some vans in awkward places in the hotel parking area but made it in unscathed in the end. Phew.
We walked across the bridge and through the city gates. Grant was keen on eating on a smoked meat place just inside the gates but I was slow to pick up on it so we ended up at a place overlooking the river instead ☹
The next morning we had a lovely breakfast cooked by a friendly Italian cook and then caught the bus up to the Minster. We figured we needed to go into at least one cathedral - so We went to York Minster. We were particularly taken with the air force memorial - which is a lovely clock that showed the horizon on the current date.
We were also taken with the tombs. The medieval ones were delightfully quaint. We were also taken with some 19th century bishops shown reclining leaning on one elbow, in full bishop regalia with cherubs off in the corners. Very odd.
The most humbling thing of all being that these people, who all thought they were important enough to have these large memorials built, we're all totally unknown to us...
I do also love the carved screens with all the Kings from William the Conqeror - well the first 20 or so.
We went on to the Treasurers house - now that we are National Trust members we like to find a National Trust property where we can. The treasurers house was restored (we now know) by a chap called Frank Green in the in the late 19th century. Sounds like a bit of an eccentric chap. Apparently had lots and LOTS of money due to an invention called Greens economiser which was patented by his Grandfather. ANyway, he left the house and the contents to the National Trust on the basis that it should not be changed.
We also managed a walk through the Shambles - narrow cobbled streets full of shops. A lot of the, seem to be chain shops these days. We managed a walk along the old city walls back to the gate leading out to the Holgate bridge.
Unfortunately Jorvik - which is a kind of Viking theme park - was flooded in the Winter and has still not recovered - so wasn't open.
And then it's off to Edinburgh.
Up, up and away at Waddington Air Force base
As we had to arrange a date and time for our visit to Waddington, this is the event that has, to an extent driven our schedule since arriving in England.
Waddington itself turns out to be a somewhat dour little village with high walls and narrow streets. I wonder whether it has changed much since my father was based here in WW2.
Not being a tourist town it is not endowed with a range of cafes. We find a tiny one and manage a cup of tea - but it is clear they are closing. We are still early and feel a serving Air Force base is not the kind of place to show up when they aren't expecting you. The pub across the road, known as the Wheat Sheaf turns out to be open - so we pop in there. Again I wonder if it may have looked very similar in the 40s when my father was in town. Did he drink here I wonder?
We arrive at Waddington base still in good time and follow our instructions to wait in the lay by just past the gate. Our guide, Chris finds us immediately, and, once we have been issued with temporary passes, takes us to the heritage centre.
Chris turns out to be very well informed and can tell us all about the history of the base - from the Roman Road outside onwards. It has a long history - with theRAF operating out of there in one way or another since WW1. Chris is retired , but has a service record mainly on the Canberas.
Of course the highlight for me in particular is the 463 and 467 part of the story. The remains of a crashed Lancaster are the first thing we see when we enter the heritage centre. Apparently this one came down in a fairly remote corner of a field and has only recently been retrieved and significant pieces fitted together around a frame. The farmer who owned the field having become concerned about it being on his land.
Chris has searched the archives for mentions of Dad - but has not really found much. However the model of a Lancaster on display in the museum turns out to have the nose art do none other than Nick the Nazi Neutraliser. S Sugar is the plane that has the publicity for the most missions - but old Nick is right up there - and Dad flew a good few of those!
The son of the pilot who crashed Nick has also arranged to have a small plaque listing the names of that crew - who were all killed in the crash. It was on a training exercise - they somehow didn't have their wing lights on and ended up colliding with a Hurricane which was also on the exercise.
Chris had dug up all the operational records of Dad's missions - which were good to see. He was intrigued because Dad and his crew had arrived on station from another squadron rather than from the Lancaster "finishing school" or from some other type of training. Will have to ask Dad about that. Also they were curious about the colour that Nick was painted. Was it yellow or red?
On the way off base he points out the original WW2 control tower - now in disrepair.
All in all a really worthwhile journey down memory lane. On to York.
Not being a tourist town it is not endowed with a range of cafes. We find a tiny one and manage a cup of tea - but it is clear they are closing. We are still early and feel a serving Air Force base is not the kind of place to show up when they aren't expecting you. The pub across the road, known as the Wheat Sheaf turns out to be open - so we pop in there. Again I wonder if it may have looked very similar in the 40s when my father was in town. Did he drink here I wonder?
We arrive at Waddington base still in good time and follow our instructions to wait in the lay by just past the gate. Our guide, Chris finds us immediately, and, once we have been issued with temporary passes, takes us to the heritage centre.
Chris turns out to be very well informed and can tell us all about the history of the base - from the Roman Road outside onwards. It has a long history - with theRAF operating out of there in one way or another since WW1. Chris is retired , but has a service record mainly on the Canberas.
Of course the highlight for me in particular is the 463 and 467 part of the story. The remains of a crashed Lancaster are the first thing we see when we enter the heritage centre. Apparently this one came down in a fairly remote corner of a field and has only recently been retrieved and significant pieces fitted together around a frame. The farmer who owned the field having become concerned about it being on his land.
Chris has searched the archives for mentions of Dad - but has not really found much. However the model of a Lancaster on display in the museum turns out to have the nose art do none other than Nick the Nazi Neutraliser. S Sugar is the plane that has the publicity for the most missions - but old Nick is right up there - and Dad flew a good few of those!
The son of the pilot who crashed Nick has also arranged to have a small plaque listing the names of that crew - who were all killed in the crash. It was on a training exercise - they somehow didn't have their wing lights on and ended up colliding with a Hurricane which was also on the exercise.
Chris had dug up all the operational records of Dad's missions - which were good to see. He was intrigued because Dad and his crew had arrived on station from another squadron rather than from the Lancaster "finishing school" or from some other type of training. Will have to ask Dad about that. Also they were curious about the colour that Nick was painted. Was it yellow or red?
On the way off base he points out the original WW2 control tower - now in disrepair.
All in all a really worthwhile journey down memory lane. On to York.
Monday 4 April 2016
A date with the Bard
Time to head North and our first stop is Stratford upon Avon.
Quite sad to leave Plymouth and the Navman doesn't make it easy for us by taking us out on a strange and complex route.
On the way we stopped at Charecote Place. Now we are National Trust members we like to fit a National Trust property where we can.
Charlecote Place is the home of the Lucy family - who still live in the house. Really pretty. Sweet little deer wandering around the park, really pretty grounds. Grant is jealous of the billiard room. From the sitting room, the parterre had stairs right into the Avon. The river seems to be pretty high after the storm.
Traffic into Stratford is crazy of course. Grant did an excellent job of choosing our hotel. The Falcon is Middle Ages at the front and modern at the back. We have a HUGE room - which is a nice change.
It's raining of course - - but we are used to that now and don't let it stop us from taking a walk around town. Of course all the medieval buildings are charming. The river is lovely and there is a lock and canal boats.
We manage to miss most of the tatty Will Shakespeare activities - but on the way out I feel that we should at least visit Anne Hathaways cottage so that we can meet our Shakespeare tourist obligations. Not that Shakespeare would necessarily recognize it at all - as it doubled in size some time after Anne lived there. But I suppose even that is remarkable - as the guide tells us not to think that the Hathaway family was poor by the standards of the day even though there were nine of them living in a two room cottage. And as always, remarkable to see evidence of domestic life from so many hundreds of years ago. The gardens around the cottage are charming - I don't remember there being gardens when I visited 30 years ago, but whether this is a change in the cottage or a change in my priorities I can't say.
And so now , parting is such sweet sorrow as we motor on to more recent history in Waddington.
Quite sad to leave Plymouth and the Navman doesn't make it easy for us by taking us out on a strange and complex route.
On the way we stopped at Charecote Place. Now we are National Trust members we like to fit a National Trust property where we can.
Charlecote Place is the home of the Lucy family - who still live in the house. Really pretty. Sweet little deer wandering around the park, really pretty grounds. Grant is jealous of the billiard room. From the sitting room, the parterre had stairs right into the Avon. The river seems to be pretty high after the storm.
Traffic into Stratford is crazy of course. Grant did an excellent job of choosing our hotel. The Falcon is Middle Ages at the front and modern at the back. We have a HUGE room - which is a nice change.
It's raining of course - - but we are used to that now and don't let it stop us from taking a walk around town. Of course all the medieval buildings are charming. The river is lovely and there is a lock and canal boats.
We manage to miss most of the tatty Will Shakespeare activities - but on the way out I feel that we should at least visit Anne Hathaways cottage so that we can meet our Shakespeare tourist obligations. Not that Shakespeare would necessarily recognize it at all - as it doubled in size some time after Anne lived there. But I suppose even that is remarkable - as the guide tells us not to think that the Hathaway family was poor by the standards of the day even though there were nine of them living in a two room cottage. And as always, remarkable to see evidence of domestic life from so many hundreds of years ago. The gardens around the cottage are charming - I don't remember there being gardens when I visited 30 years ago, but whether this is a change in the cottage or a change in my priorities I can't say.
And so now , parting is such sweet sorrow as we motor on to more recent history in Waddington.
Thursday 31 March 2016
Portsmouth and Plymouth
The next stop on our journey is Plymouth. The original idea was to use this as a staging point to explore Cornwall - but now we realize the extent of the traffic we feel this is likely to be just too much driving.
We had also thought about trying to go to Stonehenge. But over dinner , we decide that we are really much more interested in seeing Plymouth and the Victory than looking through the rain at some old rocks.
We are surprised to find in the morning that daylight saving has started. Thank heavens for self adjusting times on electronic devices! Even so, we are still jet lagged enough to find it easy to be on the road early - it beats the traffic!
It is another windy, rainy and frankly freezing day. But we aren't the only ones at the Portsmouth naval yard when it opens for business.
The Victory is just like walking through the pages of Hornblower for us. We have lots of chats with the guides posted over the ship. One even lets us pretend to fire a gun. Most of the cannons are fiberglass replicas, but there are a few genuine cannon on the ship if you know where to look.
We also tour the M33 - a WW1 gunship that was at Gallipoli. The Mary Rose was having work done - so not available for viewing. But we went to the exhibit and saw the bits we could. There was much more than we could fit into our visit. Luckily also lovely tea rooms and an antique shop filled with military bric a brac including an ejector seat.
Now I can get Mike oldfield's Portsmouth out of an endless loop in my head...
Then it was on to Plymouth. The hotel that Alison, our travel agent, had found for us was a beauty! The Duke of Cornwall, originally opened around 150 years ago. A fabulous gothic building with a gorgeous caste iron staircase. All the rooms are individually decorated. Ours had yellow hydrangea patterned wallpaper and a luxurious blue and yellow carpet.
The weather was still truly horrible and the hotel had a very pleasant lounge area. - so we ended up ordering food at the bar and having a pleasant night watching the rain beating on the windows. Luckily the storm seemed to blow itself out overnight and we woke up to blue skies.
We hadn't really expected much of Plymouth, so it was a pleasant surprise in the morning to find it was a really pretty town. The Barbican area close to the harbour has lots of narrow cobbled streets and the harbour itself is really attractive. There is also a park called the hoe - providing lovely views as well as endless opportunities for double entendres. This is supposedly where Sir Francis Drake was playing bowls when he spotted the Spanish Armada.
In the afternoon I nagged Grant into driving us out of town to visit Drakes residence - Buckland abbey. It was originally an abbey - sold off by Henry VIII to Richard Granville. Mr Granville turned out to be a pioneer in church conversions and remodeled the building to be a family manor. He ran into some of the classic problems that home renovation show addicts such as myself are familiar with - too high ceilings, awkward shaped rooms. Anyway - after establishing that any of these little difficulties could be overcome with the application of money - he eventually a sold it on to Sir Francis.
We finished the day with a delicious dinner at the river cottage cafe - which Grant had booked for me that morning. Yummo! Simple food done well. We started with a tasting plate - sausages with hummus, baked Camembert and spinach and nutmeg gratin. Then for mains Grant had whiting and chips and I had salmon with lentils. Dessert was chocolate pudding for Grant with coffee sauce and sticky toffee pudding for me. All delicious.
We had also thought about trying to go to Stonehenge. But over dinner , we decide that we are really much more interested in seeing Plymouth and the Victory than looking through the rain at some old rocks.
We are surprised to find in the morning that daylight saving has started. Thank heavens for self adjusting times on electronic devices! Even so, we are still jet lagged enough to find it easy to be on the road early - it beats the traffic!
It is another windy, rainy and frankly freezing day. But we aren't the only ones at the Portsmouth naval yard when it opens for business.
The Victory is just like walking through the pages of Hornblower for us. We have lots of chats with the guides posted over the ship. One even lets us pretend to fire a gun. Most of the cannons are fiberglass replicas, but there are a few genuine cannon on the ship if you know where to look.
We also tour the M33 - a WW1 gunship that was at Gallipoli. The Mary Rose was having work done - so not available for viewing. But we went to the exhibit and saw the bits we could. There was much more than we could fit into our visit. Luckily also lovely tea rooms and an antique shop filled with military bric a brac including an ejector seat.
Now I can get Mike oldfield's Portsmouth out of an endless loop in my head...
Then it was on to Plymouth. The hotel that Alison, our travel agent, had found for us was a beauty! The Duke of Cornwall, originally opened around 150 years ago. A fabulous gothic building with a gorgeous caste iron staircase. All the rooms are individually decorated. Ours had yellow hydrangea patterned wallpaper and a luxurious blue and yellow carpet.
The weather was still truly horrible and the hotel had a very pleasant lounge area. - so we ended up ordering food at the bar and having a pleasant night watching the rain beating on the windows. Luckily the storm seemed to blow itself out overnight and we woke up to blue skies.
We hadn't really expected much of Plymouth, so it was a pleasant surprise in the morning to find it was a really pretty town. The Barbican area close to the harbour has lots of narrow cobbled streets and the harbour itself is really attractive. There is also a park called the hoe - providing lovely views as well as endless opportunities for double entendres. This is supposedly where Sir Francis Drake was playing bowls when he spotted the Spanish Armada.
In the afternoon I nagged Grant into driving us out of town to visit Drakes residence - Buckland abbey. It was originally an abbey - sold off by Henry VIII to Richard Granville. Mr Granville turned out to be a pioneer in church conversions and remodeled the building to be a family manor. He ran into some of the classic problems that home renovation show addicts such as myself are familiar with - too high ceilings, awkward shaped rooms. Anyway - after establishing that any of these little difficulties could be overcome with the application of money - he eventually a sold it on to Sir Francis.
We finished the day with a delicious dinner at the river cottage cafe - which Grant had booked for me that morning. Yummo! Simple food done well. We started with a tasting plate - sausages with hummus, baked Camembert and spinach and nutmeg gratin. Then for mains Grant had whiting and chips and I had salmon with lentils. Dessert was chocolate pudding for Grant with coffee sauce and sticky toffee pudding for me. All delicious.
Tuesday 29 March 2016
Piers and pavillions
The trouble with falling asleep at 4:30 in the afternoon is that you are bound to get an early start the next day.
Sure enough we are out and about before 7 the next morning. At least this helps us beat the crowds.
The morning is blustery. We see a group of locals risking exposure as they head for an early morning swim - I feel thy put the Bondi icebergs to shame.
We have time to get the lay of the land and discover that we can walk to everywhere we want to go from our hotel - which is lucky as there is no way we want to drive. We find a cafe that opens for breakfast at 7 and are on their doorstep a little before that, having already walked on the pebbly beach, checked out the entrance to the pier and watched the squirrels in the gardens of the Royal Pavillion.
A chilly walk really helps you appreciate a warm coffee and a full English breakfast.
I have read so many historical novels that include a fictional visit to the Royal Pavillion that I can't help but be excited to be there in person. I particularly love the gigantic chandeliers hanging from the claws of dragons. Unfortunately you aren't allowed to take ANY photos inside. Grant is less entranced and mutters about Wealth built on exploitation of colonies...
One story we find amusing is a card next to a large ormolu clock on the mantelpiece of one of the rooms. When the Victoria decided that the Pavillion was not really to her taste (too public, being right in the middle of town. And I do have some sympathy for her opinion that it is silly to have a home so close to the sea with no sea views) much of the Royal furniture and ornamentation was removed and used elsewhere in other Royal properties. The card explained that the city of Brighton paid to have a replica of this particular clock made for the Pavillion. It seems incredible to us that the Royal family couldn't spare one clock...
We also cover the lanes - which seem to have a lot of designer shops (no fur hats though!) and generally enjoy the architecture. I need to have a cider before I can brave a walk to the end of the pier. The weather has only got worse as the day has gone on and I am freezing.
By the end of the day we feel that we have well and truly covered the place and done more than our allocated 10000 steps. We had originally located a pub called the Lion and Lobster that Grant had spotted on the internet before we left Canberra as our dinner destination - but it turned out to be packed. So we find another cafe - which turns out to have delicious food and great service. Then it's one final trudge through the wind and rain to finish our day at the seaside.
Sure enough we are out and about before 7 the next morning. At least this helps us beat the crowds.
The morning is blustery. We see a group of locals risking exposure as they head for an early morning swim - I feel thy put the Bondi icebergs to shame.
We have time to get the lay of the land and discover that we can walk to everywhere we want to go from our hotel - which is lucky as there is no way we want to drive. We find a cafe that opens for breakfast at 7 and are on their doorstep a little before that, having already walked on the pebbly beach, checked out the entrance to the pier and watched the squirrels in the gardens of the Royal Pavillion.
A chilly walk really helps you appreciate a warm coffee and a full English breakfast.
I have read so many historical novels that include a fictional visit to the Royal Pavillion that I can't help but be excited to be there in person. I particularly love the gigantic chandeliers hanging from the claws of dragons. Unfortunately you aren't allowed to take ANY photos inside. Grant is less entranced and mutters about Wealth built on exploitation of colonies...
One story we find amusing is a card next to a large ormolu clock on the mantelpiece of one of the rooms. When the Victoria decided that the Pavillion was not really to her taste (too public, being right in the middle of town. And I do have some sympathy for her opinion that it is silly to have a home so close to the sea with no sea views) much of the Royal furniture and ornamentation was removed and used elsewhere in other Royal properties. The card explained that the city of Brighton paid to have a replica of this particular clock made for the Pavillion. It seems incredible to us that the Royal family couldn't spare one clock...
We also cover the lanes - which seem to have a lot of designer shops (no fur hats though!) and generally enjoy the architecture. I need to have a cider before I can brave a walk to the end of the pier. The weather has only got worse as the day has gone on and I am freezing.
By the end of the day we feel that we have well and truly covered the place and done more than our allocated 10000 steps. We had originally located a pub called the Lion and Lobster that Grant had spotted on the internet before we left Canberra as our dinner destination - but it turned out to be packed. So we find another cafe - which turns out to have delicious food and great service. Then it's one final trudge through the wind and rain to finish our day at the seaside.
Cribb study tour 2016
Just a few hours after landing and we're already in trouble with the police!
Thanks to Dani studying in Dundee for 6 months Grant has been persuaded to board the long flight back to the mother country. I'm here by just assuming from the first that I would be included. So onto the iconic QF1.
We booked exit row Seats on the top floor of the A380 and my QANTAS club membership gives us lounge access. Best we could do without springing for business class. I would have to say they were excellent seats with the only problem being the lack of storage space - trade off for the leg room I guess. Service was excellent - but sleep on airplanes is always pretty difficult.
On landing we were off to pick up our hire car and drive to Brighton. The Europcar office was slammed and the whole process took about 2 hours - much longer than expected. Somehow we ended up walking out having been up sold from the Passat we had booked to a MUCH more expensive Mercedes SUV. Which is lovely and brand new.
Operating on very little sleep Grant is driving down the M road. We are in the middle lane of the road when the satnav falls off the screen. As we frantically try to reinstall it, evidently our speed must have dropped below some mandatory minimum. A police car speeds up beside us on our left and the occupants gesture angrily at us to move over. Confusing - as doing that would have caused us to crash into them... Anyway with much angry gesturing from the bobbies - we move chastened into the left lane - risking being whisked off to an unknown destination on one of the mysterious exits.
With no further incident we arrive in our first scheduled stop - the town of Battle. You may think that the Battle of Hastings in 1066 took place in the town of Hastings. But no - turns out it took place just down the road in the town of Battle.
Battle turns out to be a sweet little town having some kind of festival that involves dressing up. We see a dead ringer for Captain Mainwering - complete with home guard uniform and another bunch dressed up as the trains fro Thomas the Tank engine (yes - really). We have a lovely pub lunch and a walk around. Being early Spring the trees still look bare and are just coming into leaf But daffodils are up all over the place in clumps by the side of the road.
We have a lovely pub lunch and a bit of a wander. I see a fake fur hat and, in an uncharacteristic burst of thrift, decide not to buy it. A decision that I rue for the next several days of wind and rain which I endure with my daggy purple beanie jammed on my head.
After Battle we head for Brightom where we are booked to stay in a seafront hotel. We try to outsmart the NAVMAN and plot a route by the coast rather than inland where it wants to take us. Big mistake. I have a rapid refresher course in Th eccentricity of English road signs. On the not very detailed map we have picked up it LOOKS as though you just need to follow a particular A road to go where we want to go - but the signs don't necessarily include that A road in any of the exits from a particular roundabout - instead ALL directions have A and B road numbers that are not the road we are trying to follow. Even going by the next town along the route doesn't help - as there may be several routes to the same town. After driving in circles for a while, we give in and follow the satellite navigation directions. After all - this is what we brought it along to do.
By the time we arrive in Brighton, Grant is exhausted. But the closer we get to our hotel, the worse the traffic gets. Close to the seafront, the traffic is bumper to bumper,, it takes us close to half an hour to travel the last kilometer. This includes scary interludes where we end up in the wrong lane because of strange configurations of intersections....
At this point it dawns on me that a seaside town is probably not a good destination for an Easter Saturday. We can see that the footpaths are also packed with holidays get Brits.
When we finally reach our hotel room at 4:30 in the afternoon all we can manage is a shower before we fall into a deep sleep. Brighton can wait until tomorrow.
Thanks to Dani studying in Dundee for 6 months Grant has been persuaded to board the long flight back to the mother country. I'm here by just assuming from the first that I would be included. So onto the iconic QF1.
We booked exit row Seats on the top floor of the A380 and my QANTAS club membership gives us lounge access. Best we could do without springing for business class. I would have to say they were excellent seats with the only problem being the lack of storage space - trade off for the leg room I guess. Service was excellent - but sleep on airplanes is always pretty difficult.
On landing we were off to pick up our hire car and drive to Brighton. The Europcar office was slammed and the whole process took about 2 hours - much longer than expected. Somehow we ended up walking out having been up sold from the Passat we had booked to a MUCH more expensive Mercedes SUV. Which is lovely and brand new.
Operating on very little sleep Grant is driving down the M road. We are in the middle lane of the road when the satnav falls off the screen. As we frantically try to reinstall it, evidently our speed must have dropped below some mandatory minimum. A police car speeds up beside us on our left and the occupants gesture angrily at us to move over. Confusing - as doing that would have caused us to crash into them... Anyway with much angry gesturing from the bobbies - we move chastened into the left lane - risking being whisked off to an unknown destination on one of the mysterious exits.
With no further incident we arrive in our first scheduled stop - the town of Battle. You may think that the Battle of Hastings in 1066 took place in the town of Hastings. But no - turns out it took place just down the road in the town of Battle.
Battle turns out to be a sweet little town having some kind of festival that involves dressing up. We see a dead ringer for Captain Mainwering - complete with home guard uniform and another bunch dressed up as the trains fro Thomas the Tank engine (yes - really). We have a lovely pub lunch and a walk around. Being early Spring the trees still look bare and are just coming into leaf But daffodils are up all over the place in clumps by the side of the road.
We have a lovely pub lunch and a bit of a wander. I see a fake fur hat and, in an uncharacteristic burst of thrift, decide not to buy it. A decision that I rue for the next several days of wind and rain which I endure with my daggy purple beanie jammed on my head.
After Battle we head for Brightom where we are booked to stay in a seafront hotel. We try to outsmart the NAVMAN and plot a route by the coast rather than inland where it wants to take us. Big mistake. I have a rapid refresher course in Th eccentricity of English road signs. On the not very detailed map we have picked up it LOOKS as though you just need to follow a particular A road to go where we want to go - but the signs don't necessarily include that A road in any of the exits from a particular roundabout - instead ALL directions have A and B road numbers that are not the road we are trying to follow. Even going by the next town along the route doesn't help - as there may be several routes to the same town. After driving in circles for a while, we give in and follow the satellite navigation directions. After all - this is what we brought it along to do.
By the time we arrive in Brighton, Grant is exhausted. But the closer we get to our hotel, the worse the traffic gets. Close to the seafront, the traffic is bumper to bumper,, it takes us close to half an hour to travel the last kilometer. This includes scary interludes where we end up in the wrong lane because of strange configurations of intersections....
At this point it dawns on me that a seaside town is probably not a good destination for an Easter Saturday. We can see that the footpaths are also packed with holidays get Brits.
When we finally reach our hotel room at 4:30 in the afternoon all we can manage is a shower before we fall into a deep sleep. Brighton can wait until tomorrow.
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